Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware. I showed you in an earlier post How to DIY Faux Barn Doors  how I built my barn doors. This post will tell you how not to install  barn door hardware. Birds Of Prey Full Series. Just kidding but I felt like these doors were never going to be up. These are the parts I bought from Tractor Supply. They are only available in the store, not online. I purchased one of these. Box Rails. Because I have two doors, I had to purchase two sets of these flexible hangers are now available on Amazon. I purchased 2 of these Brackets to hold the box rail on the wall. The box rail was 8 feet long, and I needed it to be about 7 feet long. I cut it off with my reciprocating saw. The pieces are galvanized. I wanted them to be stainless to match other items in my kitchenceiling fan, kitchen accessories, and hinges. PlanItDIY is a source for inspiration, ideas and howto advice to help you plan and complete your DIY projects and connect you with your local independent home. I used Krylon Stainless Steel spray paint. You can see the difference between the brackets and the box rail part I cut off. Medieval 2 Total War Rapidshare. Molly and Toggle Bolts. Twopart systems consisting of a metal sleeve that you fasten to the drywall and a bolt that you screw into it are at the top end of the. I know. Its a big, scary looking thing but once I explain it, itll be about as scary as a chocolate covered cotton ball. Which is actually incredibly scary. How To Install A Molly Bolt In Drywall' title='How To Install A Molly Bolt In Drywall' />I didnt paint the hangers rollers. To install the hangers, I needed to drill a hole in the top of the door for each brackethanger. To do the holes, I used a bracket to mark the three bolt holes and the large hole in the top for the hanger bolt. I used a 34 inch paddle bit to drill the hole in the top of the door. I placed the bracket 3 inches from the edge of the door. I marked the holes with a Sharpie, then used a 38 inch paddle bit to drill them. You can see with the bracket on the door, the large bolt in the hanger fits in the hole in the top of the door. This is where things got really rough. The Accent Piece used two 24s for their box rail. I decided to go with a 26 instead. I initially used deck screws to attach it to the wall. When I brought the doors in. I knew this was going to be a challenge for me when I started. I had a really difficult time wrapping my brain around the dead space from the top of the bracket door to where the box rail would actually go. I couldnt really see it until I brought the doors inside. I had to move the 26 higher on the wall. What follows is NOT pretty folks. I dont even have pictures of all the things that went wrong. I removed the 26 and decided to use lag screws instead of the deck screws. I drilled pilot and countersink holes. I put the 26 back up. The reason I dont have pictures of the next few steps is because I was having a meltdown. MAJOR meltdown. I felt like this was never going to work at this point. I had to take the 26 down. I drilled the countersink holes big enough for the head of the lag screw, but didnt take in account the size of the socket that I was using on my drill to drive them in. In order to get two of the screws out, I had to remove the socket from the drill, tap it hard with the hammer to get it in the wood, then put the drill on it, chuck it, and unscrew the lag screws. More tears and tantrums. When I purchased the lag screws, I also picked up a 28 because lo and behold that is what the directions called for. I cut and painted the 28 and asked begged for some help. Two hands are not enough to handle and install a 7 ft 28. While the paint dries on the 28. LOL  I used a nail to find the studs, that didnt work. I then tried a  stud finder, and it was giving a false reading. I used my drill.   I feel like I need to give a little history of this wall. Back in the day, before I moved here, this was a doorway to the outside, then to a breezeway. Finally someone enclosed the breezeway and made a room on the other side of this doorway. A few years ago, when the kitchen was remodeled drywall was added over the original sheetrock of this wall. LOTS of layersno wonder the stud finder didnt work. I used a piece of wire to push into each of the holes to see if it went all the way in, or if it hit a 24. I know 1. NONE of that was working. The good news is, this will all be covered up with the new 28. I marked the holes that hit lumber. It appears there is some sort of beam going across. Typical installation would be to put the box rail up, then attach the brackets to the doors, then slide the doors into the box rail. But, remember where this door is going, it is blocked off on both sides. I had to put the flexible hangers in the box rail before I attached it to the 28. No pictures of the new 28 in progress. I did learn from my mistakes. I drilled a pilot hole and a large countersink hole so the socket would easily drive the lag screws all the way in. In this picture you can see that I used painters tape to keep the hangers from rolling around during this step. On the right, you can see that the bracket has been attached to the 28 to hold the box rail. On the left you can see that the box rail is being supported by the messed up  26 to give tired arms a break. While the 26 is holding up the box rail, I used the level on the box rail. I also used the level on the 28  After making sure the box rail is level, I drilled a pilot hole and inserted at 38 2 lag screw to the 28. I used a ratcheting  socket for this lag screwNow its time to attach the doors. Remember I have pre drilled all the holes for the bolts. The brackets in the above picture have turned around backwards. Remember this earlier picture  The flexible hangers pivot, allowing the doors to be swung up off the floor, allowing me to get to the bolts. These flexible hangers can be adjusted to raiselower your door, and to set your door closer, or further away from your 28 or door frame. This is how the door was installed. The bottom bolt was inserted on both brackets, and the nut attached. This allowed the door to be swung up off the floor slightly in order for me to get to the other four bolts that are normally restricted by the door frame. You can see that I didnt fill the holes where the lag screws are. I may or may not leave them industrial looking. You cant really see it, but there is an end cap on the right to keep the doors from sliding out of the box rail. It is of course not necessary for me, but it gives it a more finished look. You can see the difference in the color of the door and the walls. Im not thrilled with the glossiness of the paint. I am however thrilled with my new Do It Yourself Barn Doors   The left slides to the left, the right slides to the right, and that leaves about a 3. Tools I used Reciprocating Saw to shorten box rail78 inch socket for the large nuts on the flexible hangers used for adjusting the door height etcopen ended wrench for 1. I could use the 71. Not included in the Tractor supply hardware 38 x 2 lag screws for box rail hanger 2 not pictured14 x 3 lag screws I used  1. Here are the details about the specs of this space The width when I started was 8. The doorway is 4. The doors when closed are 5. The area that is exposed when doors are fully open is 3. Medical Physiology Boron Torrent Pdf Books. UPDATE I have had to remove the doors twice, once to move in new living room furniture, and once to bring in the new fridge and stove. I love them  It was an expensive project, my most costly DIY by far But, if you shop around online, the hardware alone real barn door hardware can run upwards of 5. I found some great handles at The Home Depot. Love themYou can get similar barn door handles online. Whats behind the doors That non purpose room that needs to be updated. Its where the cats eat and sleep. They do have the run of the house, but mostly prefer that room because the blinds are always open and they have a great window seat that is heated in the winter time.